Charging psp from usb. Which charger is suitable for Sony PSP and where to buy it? So, why is the PSP not charging?

Hello, Muska readers. Today I will tell you about 5 volt charging for PSP (hereinafter referred to by me as PSU) or about where I applied the 30 points received from the promotion.
If anyone is interested, please see cat.

Lyrical digression

I have been purchasing online since 2011 and mainly from brothers from the Middle Kingdom. Accordingly, I have also been reading this wonderful site for a long time and regularly. I myself periodically had the idea of writing a review on some of my next purchases from China, but laziness prevailed over good intentions. And suddenly the triumph of my inner writer over laziness took place. Although I’m a little disingenuous about the suddenness - this “accomplishment” was facilitated by the authors who inspired me in the person and with their reviews of amateur radio, the potential opportunity to earn “goodies” from the site, and, of course, an increase in free time due to additional days off at work (citizens “the earth fell with white wings” will understand). This is where we should end with the digressions (there wouldn’t be any at all, but this is my writing debut on this site, so I decided to introduce you a little to my “buying” part of my personality).

I will not provide photos of the product packaging and the process of unpacking it, I don’t think anyone would be interested in this. Let me just clarify that the parcel has been sent China Post without a track number and arrived in a record time for me - 16 days (usually delivery takes from 25 days). The order was placed on February 27, the letter confirming the shipment of the goods arrived on February 28. Sending in 1 day is a good result - a plus for the store. Oh yes, the CN22 customs declaration indicated that there was a gamepad in the parcel and, returning home from post office, I was going through the options in my head for how this happened, because I definitely didn’t order gamepads. Well, another plus for the store’s intrigue! 
The product description from the store's website says: technical characteristics Oh; about the compatibility of the power supply with various models PSP; O high quality; about built-in protection ensuring safe charging; about stable output and fast charging, etc. In general, see for yourself:

An alert buyer, of course, will immediately notice 2 types of stickers in the photographs of the power supply provided on the store page, I have this sticker:

I unpacked the parcel, plugged the power supply into the network and measured it output voltage– 5.36V, the power supply seems to be working. I rarely trust sellers at their word, especially when it comes to narrow-eyed brothers. IN in this case Based on the weight of the power supply, I doubted its capabilities even more (unfortunately, I don’t have scales at my disposal, but the customs declaration indicates a weight of 95 grams, this is the weight of the entire parcel with packaging and cables). Experience suggested that a networked two-amp power supply cannot be so light. The overall dimensions of the box are as follows: 76x46x23mm.
Length network cable without taking into account the length of the plugs - 99 cm, the resistance of each wire measured from plug to plug was more than 0.3 Ohm, however, for such a weak power supply (5V * 2A / 0.6 = 16.7W I assume an efficiency of 60% in the declared rated load mode) this does not matter, but These characteristics are critical for the output cable. Its length (from the plug to the board tracks) is 112 cm, the resistance of each wire is 0.15 Ohm, which in total gives 0.3 Ohm or, with a declared current of 2 Amperes, a voltage drop of 0.6 Volts (in addition, at 2A the cord will heat up - copper wire diameter less than 0.4mm). For PSP charging, a voltage drop of 0.6V most likely will not affect, but on the other hand, 0.6 Volts from 5 Volts is 12%. I’m not good at standardization and certification, but 12% for a power supply with “High quality assurance” is unacceptable :). Well, we’ve discussed the wires theoretically, it’s time to move on to the filling, practical measurements and checking whether the actual technical characteristics correspond to the declared ones.
Having not found the mounting screws of the power supply housing and having made a couple of turns with a pick at the junction of the two halves of the housing, I came to the conclusion that the housing is attached using glue (they saved money). Therefore, the mediator was replaced with a mechanic’s knife, under the influence of which the plastic halves crackled open (it’s worth noting that the knife jumped off a couple of times and therefore the power supply acquired battle scars). Here he is, the hero of the naked review:

The first thought that came to me when I saw the “giblets” of the power supply was that miracles don’t happen, I’ve never seen a free two amps. The size of the transformer (or rather the inductor, because it is a flyback converter) is minimal (the core is E 13/7/4, which is used in all cheap chargers for mobile phones; it is unlikely to be able to extract more than 4 W from it). The board material also smelled of cheapness - getinax. Some details are missing. Turning the board over:

The quality of soldering is normal, traces of flux are visible only at the legs of the network connector, silk-screen printing on both sides is clearly readable. Fundamental electrical diagram The real device looks like this:

What we have here is a typical single-cycle flyback voltage converter, made in the form of a blocking generator.

Let's try to be clever or the details and operating principle of the circuit

At the input there is no filter against emissions into the network from this power supply (I was daydreaming). To rectify the mains voltage, a diode bridge is used (although no savings were made here) made on four diodes VD1-VD4 type 1N4007. Capacitor C1 with a capacity of 4.7 μF and an operating voltage of up to 450V (wow, even better power supplies use 400V input filter capacitors) serves to filter 100 Hz ripple and provide the required level DC voltage 310V (usually the value of its capacity is taken to be no less than the power of the power supply, i.e. 1 μF = 1 W) for the converter. Resistor R1 is designed to limit the charging current C1 when the power supply is connected to the network (in more expensive power supplies a thermistor is used as R1).
Resistor R2 creates a bias for transistor Q1 necessary for the initial startup of the power supply. Generation is supported by capacitor C3, included in the positive feedback circuit on winding II; the generation frequency depends on its capacitance and parameters T1. When Q1 is unlocked, the voltage at the lower terminals of windings I and II is negative, at the upper terminals it is positive, the positive half-wave through capacitor C3 opens Q1 even more, the voltage amplitude in the windings increases - Q1 opens like an avalanche. As capacitor C3 charges, the base current begins to decrease, Q1 begins to close, the voltage at the upper terminal of winding II in the circuit begins to decrease, through capacitor C3 the base current decreases even more, and Q1 closes like an avalanche. Resistor R6 is needed to limit the base current of Q1. After closing Q1 with the amplitude of the self-induction EMF through diode VD7 (which uses a Schottky diode of type 1N5819 with a direct current of 1A, so even if you close your eyes to the small overall power of T1, then a current of 2A will not allow you to get this diode), capacitor C5 (cheap electrolytic capacitor with a permissible voltage of 10V and a capacity of 470 μF) and voltage is supplied to the output of the power supply unit. Resistor R4 is the current sensor of the primary winding T1. When the current flowing through transistor Q1 becomes large, the voltage drop across resistor R4 increases and through resistor R5 opens Q2, which will limit the base current of transistor Q1 and, accordingly, the current of the primary winding T1. Negative influence has the same effect. feedback in terms of voltage, ensuring stabilization of the output voltage - when the voltage is exceeded (the stabilization voltage of the zener diode plus the voltage drop on the optocoupler LED plus the voltage drop on R8), current will flow through the zener diode U1 located at the output of the power supply unit and the optocoupler LED IC1 will begin to glow, its phototransistor will open slightly, positive voltage from capacitor C4 affects Q2. Resistor R8 limits the zener diode current, and R7 protects the optocoupler LED from being damaged by high current. Components R3, C2, VD5 form a damper that dampens the surge created by the primary winding T1 when Q1 closes, thereby protecting the latter from breakdown. CY1 is a special noise suppression capacitor (I believe that this is a regular capacitor with a breakdown voltage of 800 volts or more). Faceless capacitors are used as C2 and CY1, the capacitance of which, measured by an LC meter, is 1 nF.

And now the measurements.
As was said earlier, at idle the power supply produces a voltage of 5.36V, which, by the way, has never changed even by one hundred in 10 minutes (but this does not mean that the power supply has such good stabilization, rather it indicates that cheap multimeters with automatic switching of the ranges of measured values, they have great inertia, and this is exactly how I carried out this measurement). Let's look with an oscilloscope:

The cell is 1kHz and 0.1V. The ripple amplitude is 0.25V. The long vertical lines are short 50 kHz pulses, which become invisible on the faster sweep of my oscilloscope. But under load, you can clearly observe these impulses increased many times:

The load current is 0.46A, the output voltage is 5.13V. In the cell 50kHz and 0.2V, i.e. pulsation amplitude 0.6V. Of the parts, only the throttle heats up (I didn’t measure the temperature with a multimeter because the heating is insignificant). With a load current of 0.84A, the output voltage fluctuates within 4.92-4.98V, the ripple amplitude has increased to 0.7V, while T1 gets very hot - about 80 degrees (this is heating during the test for 2-3 minutes in the absence of a power supply housing). I didn’t load it anymore because the VD7 Schottky diode at the output of the power supply can emit magic smoke, which is the basis for the operation of all electronics. :)
For comparison, here is the output voltage ripple at idle speed of the cheapest (at the time of purchase) purchased a long time ago on BiK with a stated output current of 0.5A:

In one cell there is 1kHz and 0.2V, under load everything is much sadder than that of the reviewed power supply. In reality, you can’t remove more than 0.2A from a BiKovskaya charger.
And here are the oscillograms of the output voltage ripple of the original charging from old nokia with a declared output current of 0.3A. Idling (there is no focus in the photo due to the fact that it was shot in low natural light):

Does it look really bad? Vice versa! These ripples have a frequency of 190 kHz and an amplitude of 0.08 mV (in a cell 200 kHz and 0.02 V)!
Oscillogram under 0.4A load:

In the cell there are 200kHz and 0.1V, i.e. these are ripples with a frequency of 75 kHz and an amplitude of 0.3 V when the declared rated current is exceeded by 33%. Both charges are performed using the same method. standard scheme. Such differences in the quality of the output voltage are due to the accuracy of the calculation and the quality of the design of the inductor.
There are no measurements of switching currents and voltages due to the lack of instruments to record them (this cannot be observed with an analog oscilloscope of the S1-65 type).
Is it possible to improve the BP under review and if so, how? If you have at your disposal, in addition to a soldering iron, various parts, then yes. Firstly, increase the capacitance of the output capacitor C5, this will reduce the ripple of the output voltage (the rule here is that you can’t spoil the porridge with oil, with two caveats. The first is that with a significant value of this capacitance, its charging current will break through the VD7 diode when the power supply is turned on. The second is that high-capacity capacitors cost money , which is impractical to invest in this design) and install a permanent capacitor with a capacity of at least 0.1 μF in parallel with it, which will “make life easier” for C5 and slightly reduce high-frequency (50+ kHz) ripple of the output voltage. Secondly, solder the TL431 chip provided on the printed circuit board instead of a zener diode with the necessary wiring for it, this should give greater stability to the output voltage. Thirdly, increase the capacitance of capacitor C1 to 10 μF (higher does not make sense, and besides, it will require installing a thermistor or resistor with a higher resistance as R1), which will make it possible to better load the primary winding T1 at high currents at the output of the power supply unit, and therefore remove a little more power. Fourth, replace the output cable. Fifthly, replace the VD7 diode with a diode with a lower voltage drop, which will also allow you to remove a little more power at the output.
Oscillograms of the output voltage with double the capacity of the output capacitor C5 (a 470 μFx50V capacitor was soldered in parallel to C5):

Idling, in the cell 1kHz and 0.1V, the ripple amplitude was only 0.06V, the output voltage was still the same 5.36V.

With a load current of 0.46A, the output voltage is 5.13V. In a cell of 50 kHz and 0.2 V, the shape of the pulsation pulses has become smoother - there are no sharp peaks and, accordingly, their amplitude has become much lower - less than 0.4 V.
I did not increase the capacity of C5 in my power supply - I simply added an SMD capacitor with a capacity of 220 nF. I also did not increase the capacity of the input capacitor C1, because I decided that I don’t need to remove more than 0.45A from the power supply. But I replaced the zener diode with a TL431 and soldered a three-amp SMD diode of type SS36 as a VD7 diode (because I have both TL431 and SS36 in sufficient quantities - they were once ordered from China in packs of 100 pieces). For TL431, I selected the resistances of the divider resistors R9 and R10 to obtain exactly 5 Volts at the output. As a result, with the same load resistors I got the following:
Load current 0A (idle) – output voltage 5.01V – ripple 0.25V.
Current 0.45A – output voltage 4.98V – ripple 0.6V.
Current 0.84A – output voltage 4.95V – ripple 0.6V.
Current 1.14A - output voltage fluctuates between 3.96-4.00V - ripple exceeds 1V.
Current 1.38A (short circuit through a multimeter) - output voltage is about zero. Those. the inductor cannot produce a current of more than 1.38A (although it can only produce such a current for a short time, because in this mode it will overheat). It is also obvious that the use of TL431 has reduced the dependence of the output voltage drop on the load current.
When ordering this power supply, I already assumed two options for its use, depending on the actual current output: if it is about 2A, it will power one of my self-propelled guns, if less, it will be suitable for powering the recently purchased w3020 wifi router (the current consumed by the router does not go beyond 0.45A). And if it’s for a router, then the power supply was “implanted” into the case USB type A. This is what it looks like after my “doping”:

The schematic diagram began to look like this:

The USB is secured with glue gun glue. TL431 is not “laid” by chance, so it turns out to be as far away as possible from T1, which heats up significantly, and TKS TL431, although good, is not ideal.
Now this power supply works 24/7 under my strict control.
The power supply housing in the throttle area is warm.
Time to take stock. The power supply can and will charge the PSP, but it does not meet the stated characteristics. Protection against short circuit it doesn't have it, because at K.Z. the VD7 diode will break through (in general, correctly designed flyback converters are not afraid of a short circuit at the output). The real current that the power supply can supply to the load for a long time is no more than 0.5A. Stable output and fast charging? - well, you understand. :)
The conclusion is obvious - buy this product For 1.55 + delivery I don’t recommend it to anyone.
Technical documentation for some components used in the described power supply:

P.S.: for measurements I used:
Soviet-made student ruler; multimeter ADM02 made in China; LC meter 4070L made in China; Soviet-made S1-65 oscilloscope; wire resistance measurements were carried out using an indirect method using a homemade current source and a multimeter; powerful ones were used as a load fixed resistors at 11, 5.8 and 3.3 ohms. The above measuring instruments have not undergone any special accuracy checks, but for these measurements the accuracy of their readings is sufficient. :)
P.P.S.: All of the above is the fruit of my judgment and therefore does not claim to be complete or true. I regret if the process of familiarizing the reader with this text was accompanied by any negative feelings.
P.P.P.S: I will be glad to constructive criticism and am ready, to the best of my ability, to answer questions of interest on the topic of the product under review.
I'm planning to buy +10 Add to favorites I liked the review +52 +91

How to charge a mobile phone without charger. How to charge a mobile phone without a charger? Many people have to deal with a situation where their mobile phone battery has run out of charge, but they can’t charge the battery. At the moment I don’t want to visit the store for a charger, but need to call

Video reviews and comparisons of gadgets

Home page » How to charge psp battery without charger

How to charge a mobile phone without a charger.

How to charge a mobile phone without charger devices? Many people have to deal with a situation where the mobile phone battery has run out of charge and cannot be charged battery It doesn't work at all. At the moment I don’t want to visit the store to buy a charger, but I need to call urgently. It won’t be difficult to be on a train or at your workplace, but as luck would have it, your colleagues don’t have a model like you. In general, a charger is a very fragile thing, at any moment it will fall under your feet. Or your charger broke after falling from a height. It happens like this: in the dead of night, you need to call about a very important matter, on which your upcoming fate depends. There is an option to wait for a comfortable option to purchase a new one, unfortunately you need to try charging without a charger, since there are several methods for doing this.

The first method of charging a phone without a charger is charging using a computer. To do this, you need to have a desktop, laptop or tablet at home with a USB connector, and, naturally, you need to have a suitable adapter for the connector of your charger devices on USB. At the moment, many manufacturers have connectors connected to mini- and macro-USB standards, so users have several similar cables. You also need a PC, if you don’t have one, you can ask your neighbor - and the job will be done. And at the moment, the second method of charging a mobile phone without a charger, with this method you need to work a little with performing several sequential actions. 1st step of the second charging method. This technical method charging a mobile phone. To do this, you need to take at least some charger from a long-lost or broken phone. Everyone has several of them lying around at home unnecessarily. 2nd step. You need to cut off the phone connector on this charger. Then, using a sharp knife, you need to make a radial cut and remove the insulation in such a way that two exposed blue and reddish wires remain. 3rd step. The next step is to connect the wires to the battery and secure them. Next, you will have to remove the battery from your mobile phone and closely examine the golden-colored contacts marked “plus” and “-” minus next to them. You need to later lean the plus contact - the blue wire of the battery plus the contact of your charger, and - the minus contact of the reddish color - the wire to the minus of the battery. Press the wires tightly to the contacts and secure them with insulating tape or tape. If your actions are correct, the battery begins to charge after connecting the charger to the network. Do not touch exposed wires to avoid shock electron current, although not strong.

We charge the PSP without its own power supply.

Read also

When wondering about preparing an iPhone for sale or eliminating problems associated with improper operation of programs, users need to reset the device to industrial options. Now we will look at how this problem is performed. By...

How to install an operating system on a Lenovo laptopSome Lenovo laptops They are sold with a pre-installed free operating system FREE Dos123, which, to put it mildly :), is not suitable for work. Probably owners of Lenovo laptops (not only...

Google's efforts in internet services saw some of the first gigabit speeds delivered by Google Fiber. Now Webpass. another Internet provider of the company. is being renamed to "Google Fiber Webpass". If you didn't know about Webpass, you...

Compliance with the operating mode of the batteries, and for example the charging mode, guarantees their trouble-free operation throughout their service life. The batteries are charged with a current, the value of which is determined by the formula where I. average charging current, A., and Q. pass...

How to roll back iOS 7 iPhone 4. Several rollback methods. Rollback iPhone 4 from iOS 7 to iOS 7: two methodsOperating iOS system 7 on the iPhone can only satisfy a user who is not demanding of his gadget. The system is working slowly...

Typically, in our world, tablets have the ability to install both a regular password code and its graphic counterpart as information protection. Graphic key is one of the methods for blocking a device on operating system"Android"...

Fast reliable way charge psp, without native charger.

How to charge PSP.

Group on VK.

Method 3 can be called finger method, how to charge a phone without a charger. You are going on a hike or a business trip. You have more than once encountered the problem of charging your phone’s battery during multi-day hikes, so you’ll have to prepare in a suitable manner. You can take a spare battery so that charge phone in traveling conditions. You can use another third method of charging your phone. If you have the opportunity and time to prepare, you can use a homemade device to charge your phone, which is based on ordinary AA batteries. For creation homemade device You will need a similar box in a radio parts or electronics store and solder a suitable connector to it, although you can make it yourself from spare parts. This method of charging a mobile battery without a charger is suitable only for those who have a mini-USB connector or an appropriate adapter.

One comment on the post “How to charge mobile phone without charger ”

Once I had to heat up the radiator by the fire. To be honest, it's not the most ideal option. Since then I take an external charger with me to solar battery sititek Sun-Battery sc-09. Hopeless situations in nature have decreased.

Read also

By: Mobile India Network, Kolkata Latest update: February 12, 2020, 11:36 Latest NewsXiaomi will introduce new headphones with HD Audio on February 2510 key features Samsung Galaxy Z Flip: Is it worth buying (or not)! Reliance Jio unveils...

iPhone and other apples Hello, this problem: iOS 9.3.5.1 is worth it, I can't update and download apps in the AppStore. In this publication we will talk about how to update iOS to version 8 on the 4th iPhone and whether it is worth it. Hello, I'm updating...

Hard Reset, aka Hard Reset, is done by 2 main methods. Regardless of the method you choose, take care of backing up your personal information, today take out a memory card from your tablet, just in case, a SIM card, if you have one. If the tablet...

How to put a photo on a contact in Android - loved ones are always nearby Thanks to the abilities of an open accounting complex Android programs the user can customize the weight of the phone, which is called “personal.” For example, put your melody on...

Add a comment Cancel reply.

The hottest topics.

Get enough sleep at night. Lack of sleep has a huge impact on the quality of decision making.

Abstracts

How to charge psp without charging? How to charge psp without charging psp without help charge battery from. How to charge psp via USB? How to charge psp3008 connection Mobile devices You can charge your PSP from How to charge a battery without a charger or how Not all car enthusiasts know how to determine what is the reason the car refuses to start. How charge psp without charger devices how to charge a psp without how to charge a 14.4 v battery without a charger How to charge a battery without a charger how to How to charge a battery without charger. Very often mobile phone owners How to charge PSP Slim from USB, If I completely How do I charge the psp from usb if I am a battery, from Nokia charge everything indiscriminately, How to charge the battery. Author: KUZMA PTKOV. how to charge psp without charger? how to charge psp without there was no charger Help charge the battery Charging the battery without PSP. PSPx forum 10/3 Charging the battery without psp I need charge battery not practice. How to charge for PSP (ZYZY) with your own hands, part 1.

Post Views: 16

The main advantage of a portable gaming console is the ability to play anywhere. This is ensured by batteries or a rechargeable battery. The latter type of power supply is implemented in the PSP console, and below we will talk about the intricacies and features of charging this device.

There are many options for charging the battery of Sony's first portable console. They can be divided into two large groups – full-time and freelance. The first includes using the included charger (for a home or car network) and connecting via USB to a computer. The second is using a third-party power supply and charging the battery separately from the set-top box.

Method 1: Bundled charger

The optimal method of replenishing energy in the PSP battery is to use a standard power supply.

Method 2: USB Charging

For cases when the charger is lost or there is no access to it for other reasons, Sony engineers have provided an alternative option, which is to receive energy from the USB port of a computer or laptop.

Attention! It is not recommended to use chargers for phones and tablets, as there is a risk of damaging the battery or reducing its capacity!

Method 3: Third Party Charger

If options with standard charging or USB connection are not available, you can use a third-party charger - there are universal power supplies on the market with many common connectors (attachments) and switching transformer operating modes.

The options for PSP are as follows:

Voltage – 5V;
Input voltages and frequency – 100-240V and 50/60Hz respectively;
Power – 2A (1000 and 2000 series) and 1.5A (3000, Go and Street series).

However, even if the correct parameters are set, stable operation from third party source nutrition is not guaranteed, so we recommend using this method only as a last resort.

Method 4: Universal power supply for batteries

The most difficult situation is when the standard power connector in the console is broken and the battery is completely discharged. In this case, you can try to recharge the battery using a universal frog charger.

Attention! You perform all the actions described below at your own peril and risk!

What to do if your PSP won't charge

Sometimes, even if all the rules and recommendations are followed, the PSP does not charge. Let's look at the most common causes and methods to solve the problem.

If the console does not charge when connected via USB, repeat steps 1-3 of Method 2. We remind you once again that if the battery is completely discharged, it can only be charged through a plug or separately from the set-top box.
It is also worth checking the charger, especially if it is not original - perhaps the set parameters are not suitable, causing the battery to go into overload protection and not charge. The original power supply can be tested on another PSP or other device with a suitable connector. If problems are found, replace the charger.
It is also possible that the battery is to blame for the problem. Usually its failure is accompanied by other symptoms, such as:
- Suspiciously fast charge up to 100%;
- Short (less than 30 minutes) period battery life consoles;
- Jumps in charge indicators (for example, first 40%, then 50%, then 40% again).
If you've experienced one or more of the issues listed above, your PSP's battery is most likely bad and needs to be replaced.
If both the power source and the battery are known to be good, the problem lies in the hardware of the set-top box itself. Usually repairing such problems at home is impossible, so you will have to contact service center.

Conclusion

Now you know how to charge your PSP and what to do if the console does not charge. Finally, let us remind you once again - use only original accessories, since they are most compatible with the console.

Quite often users game consoles encounter a problem when PSP won't charge. Naturally, it is impossible to continue its further exploitation. What to do? We do not recommend wasting time trying to charge it; moreover, it can end quite disastrously. It is best to contact our service center for help as quickly as possible, where they will definitely help you. Our experts will first of all determine why not charging battery PSP. To do this, we will conduct a free diagnosis.

So, why is the PSP not charging?

As a rule, in 95% of cases it’s all about the following:

1. The most common reason is that the charger itself has failed. Try using another one that you are sure is 100% functional. If this helps, then just buy a new charger.

2. If USB PSP not working Perhaps the connector itself has failed. You encounter something like this quite often. In this case, only complete replacement of the connector will help.

3. It is possible that the connector may be partially torn out. As a rule, this is checked in a simple way. Just pull the plug in different directions, this will cause the charge to appear and disappear. This problem with the connector is solved simple restoration board tracks at the soldering point of the connector.

The main advantage of any portable game console is the ability to play anywhere without being tied to the network, TV or sofa. This is what distinguishes the most popular pocket console from Sony.

However, they still have disadvantages. In particular, this is the need to periodically charge the battery. Of course, the same Playstation Portable with standard settings brightness can provide up to 6-7 hours of battery life. But you will still need to charge it. How can this be done?

Available chargers for PSP

Fortunately, the issue of replenishing battery energy in this system is thought out comprehensively. This means you can recharge in various ways. First of all, use the standard charger included in the kit. It connects to a 220 V network, connects to a separate socket on the set-top box and allows you to fully power the battery in a few hours. At the same time, at this moment you can play freely, which is very convenient. But keep in mind that it is best to use only original components to prevent damage to the battery. Where can I buy a charger for the PSP? You will find accessories in specialized online stores.

Of course, these are not all the options. If you don’t have a charger or a free outlet at hand, then a computer or laptop can save you. The PSP portable console is equipped with a Mini USB port through which you can connect to another device. And if the USB port of the PC or laptop can provide sufficient charge, then the console will charge. To do this you need to do the following:

insert the cable into the console and into the PC;
select the USB charging function in the set-top box menu.

Here you should also use high-quality wire.

For car owners, specialized gaming console stores may sell Sony PSP chargers from the cigarette lighter. Simply insert the device, connect the cable, and the system starts charging. Convenient and takes up minimal space.

If you are on the road, and there is no charger, cigarette lighter, or laptop at hand, then this can save the situation external source nutrition. For example, Powerbank. But here it is important that the device can provide a sufficient level of current. Otherwise, the PSP simply will not be able to receive a charge and, of course, charge.