How to remove cooling from an intel processor. How to remove the cooler and how to install the processor and cooler. Smart installation. Installing a heatsink on the processor

Dust slows down your computer because it impairs heat dissipation from the CPU and video card. They overheat to a critical level when throttling is triggered. This is a mechanism built into processors that reduces their performance, thereby reducing the temperature.

Cleaning your computer from dust is necessary not when there is a need to speed up the computer, but at least once a year. The lower the system unit is located, the more dust it collects. The copy we cleaned had not been cleaned for six months, and the photographs show that it was thoroughly dusty. Although this is not the most advanced option yet.

Two options for cleaning your computer: express and deep

To quickly remove dust from the system unit, remove the cover and vacuum it. Try not to damage anything. It will take 3 minutes, but will only remove some of the dust. Therefore, we will talk about method No. 2.

Thorough cleaning involves dismantling and cleaning the cooler, processor and video card, as well as putting the case in order. You will need a flathead and Phillips screwdriver, ethyl alcohol, paper napkins, thermal paste, a cleaning brush and a vacuum cleaner (which does not fit in the photo).

Turn off the computer and disconnect all cords from the system unit. We take it out from the place where you have it, into free space.

When disassembling any parts of the computer, use the golden rule: before unscrewing, unplugging, or removing anything, take a photo or write down how it all happened. Then it will be easier to assemble.

We lay the system unit on its side. To open it, unscrew the screws securing the cover on the back panel. Most often, after this you need to move it towards the rear panel.

This is how the picture opens. Our main goal is the cooler or processor cooling system, consisting of a fan and a radiator. In the photo it is in the center, boxed version. The second target is the video card, which is visible to the right of the cooler.

First we remove the fan. Using a flathead screwdriver, slightly bend the side latches one at a time and pull the fan up. There are options when it is attached with screws or is not removed from the radiator at all. In the latter case, you can only clean it superficially.

After removing the fan, disconnect it from the motherboard.

How to remove a heatsink from a processor

The radiator can be attached directly to the motherboard with screws, then you just need to unscrew them. Or a plastic slot frame is attached to the motherboard, and the radiator is clicked into it. In this case, to remove the radiator, lift the clamp holding the mounting bracket. We disengage the bracket grooves on both sides and carefully pull up.

If the thermal paste between the processor and the heatsink has dried out, the heatsink may come off along with the processor. In this case, carefully pry up the processor with a wooden or plastic tool and disconnect it. It is better to do this with gloves.

Release the processor latch on the socket. Now you can disconnect the processor itself by pulling it up. Please note: there are metal feet on the back of the processor. Be careful not to bend them.

Having removed the cooler and processor, we clean the system unit from the inside, i.e. We are trying to remove dust from all other elements. To do this, we use a regular vacuum cleaner and a clean, dry small brush. When bringing the vacuum cleaner hose to any dust accumulations on the motherboard or in the case, use a brush to scrape it out of the corners.

You need to be careful with any protruding parts on the board to avoid breaking them. We clean everything that we see and that we can carefully get close to.

An alternative cleaning option is to use compressed air cylinders, which can be used to blow out contaminated areas. But the dust will still settle somewhere, and breathing it is harmful.

The inner surface of the processor must not be wiped with a damp cloth! After this, computers cannot survive!

As a rule, there is no dust on it, but there are remnants of thermal paste, usually dried out. The easiest way to remove them is with a paper towel moistened with alcohol. It happens that the paste has already hardened and alcohol does not take it - then try more aggressive substances such as solvent or acetone. Do not use wet wipes or rags!

We clean the radiator separately, and the fan separately. First, use the same napkin with alcohol to clean the underside of the radiator contact plate from any remaining thermal paste. Then use a brush and vacuum cleaner to remove dust from the ribs. As an option, it is possible to flush the radiator with water, but then thoroughly dry it. By the time it is installed in place, there should be no moisture left in it.

The fan is cleaned with a brush, blown with air, and wiped with a cloth soaked in alcohol. Be careful with the fan blades, they are easy to break.

Once you've finished cleaning, try turning the fan manually. Rotation should be easy, without unnecessary noise and strong axial play. Movement along the axis up and down a couple of millimeters is allowed. But if there is noise, strong play, or the fan generally does not spin easily by hand, it is better to replace it.

Replacement of thermal paste and assembly

Once all parts are cleaned, you can begin reassembly. Re-coat the processor with thermal paste.

You need to change the thermal paste every six months, but if you clean your computer more often, change it every time you clean it.

How to apply thermal paste? – Very economically, literally on the tip of the nail. It's not a matter of greed, it's just that for effective thermal conductivity the layer of thermal paste should be as thin as possible. So don't overdo it.

Spread the paste with a clean finger or a plastic card “spatula”. You need to cover the entire surface of the processor, while distributing the paste evenly, without gaps, but without crawling over the edges. We collect excess from the edges with a napkin or cotton wool.

We install the processor in place so that the corner marked with a golden triangle on it coincides with a similar corner in the socket. This is the only position in which the processor will fit correctly. It just “falls” into the slot itself, no need to press. Then we fix it with a clamp.

Reinstall the radiator. To do this, you need to place the grooves of the bracket under the hooks, hooking them, and press the radiator with the handle. It should fit tightly and not wobble on the processor.

The computer suddenly stopped turning on; an autopsy revealed the presence of a swollen electrolytic capacitor along the +5 V power circuit on the motherboard. I had to start replacing the capacitor.

When I removed the motherboard, I was extremely surprised by its strong deflection in the area where the processor was installed. I applied the ruler and realized that if urgent measures were not taken, I would soon have to buy a new system unit.

Why does the motherboard sag?

I already knew cases of motherboard failure due to deflection. Since the conductive tracks on the motherboard are very narrow and thin, they stretch and microcracks form in them. Due to temperature changes due to the linear expansion of materials, microcracks gradually turn into cracks. The track is broken and the board stops working. At first, the computer begins to freeze occasionally, then more and more often, and a moment comes when it stops working forever.

Such a motherboard cannot be repaired; it has up to seven layers, and it is almost impossible to find a broken track. You have to replace it with a new one, and additional costs arise, since most likely the processor, memory modules and other cards installed on the old motherboard will not be installed on the new motherboard, since there are no longer the necessary connectors. In practice, you have to buy a new system unit, although the old one was quite suitable for your tasks.

When studying the device for pressing the radiator to the processor, it became clear that the deformation of the motherboard occurs due to its illiterate (or deliberate) design. The radiator is pressed against the processor, and the engagement holes for creating the pressing force of the radiator against the processor are also located on the printed circuit board at a distance from the processor installation location. Thus, the processor presses on the board in one direction, and the heatsink engagement points in the opposite direction. This leads to deformation of the motherboard.

To avoid deformation, it is necessary that the acting and opposing forces that are applied to the motherboard from different sides are on the same axis; this requirement was the starting point for upgrading the design of the radiator clamping device, which does not deform the motherboard.

As you can see, the plastic clips have been replaced with spring-loaded screws, but that's not the only difference. The design uses a metal plate and a dielectric bearing. Screws are screwed into the plate, and the plate rests with a thrust bearing instead of installing the processor. Thus, conditions for deformation of the motherboard are excluded.

Upgrading the CPU heatsink mounting system

In the photo you see the modernized clamping device in assembled form. Its design is so simple that almost anyone with minimal materials processing skills can repeat it.

First, a metal plate of steel or aluminum alloy measuring 85x85 mm and 3 mm thick is made. The thickness of the plate is determined by the required mechanical strength. Dimensions are valid for GIGABYTE GA81915P-G motherboard clamping device. Four holes with a diameter of 3.5 mm are drilled symmetrically at the corners of the plate at a distance of 72 mm around the perimeter from each other and an M4 thread is cut into them.

Next, a square plate of dielectric measuring 50×50 mm and thickness 1.5 mm is made. The thickness of the plate is determined by the clearance that must be provided to prevent the metal plate from touching the solder joints on the motherboard. I cut it out of foil fiberglass with metal scissors.

All that remains is to glue the plates together with any suitable glue or double-sided tape and the structure is ready. Before gluing, you need to place the processor on the soldering area and see if the protrusions of the soldering or soldered radio elements will interfere. If they interfere, then you need to make a sample in the insulating plate or drill holes in the places where they touch. The plate should lie flat on the board. After gluing, it is necessary to reattach the resulting combined plate and check whether the metal part will touch the soldering areas of the electrolytic capacitors. There are usually a lot of them around the processor. All protruding legs must be trimmed with side cutters. All that remains is to select screws, springs and washers.

It was not possible to find ready-made compression springs of the required diameter and stiffness, so we had to modify the most suitable tension spring. You can, of course, do without springs by using plastic washers, but then it is difficult to get a perfect fit of the radiator to the surface of the processor. I made the springs from one spring from the extension of the grounding wire of the kinescope monitor. Such springs are used in any CRT TV. The internal diameter of such a spring is 5 mm, the diameter of the wire is about 0.5 mm.

In order to stretch the spring, you need to insert two screwdrivers into its rings at the ends or grab it with two pliers and, using a little force, very slowly pull to the sides until you feel that the metal has “givered”. Release the spring and see what happens. The spring winding pitch should be about 1 mm, if less, repeat the operation. In case of a mistake, the kinescope usually has four springs, so there is something to practice on. The stretched spring is cut with pliers into pieces eight turns long.

It remains to select four screws with M4 threads 20 mm long.

I used nice screws that tighten the clamps that secure the deflection system to the neck of the picture tubes. But any will do, you just have to put standard washers on each side of the spring.

A fastener kit for upgrading the CPU heatsink clamping device has been prepared. Everything is ready to install the new fastening device, but first you need to dismantle the old one.

How to remove a processor heatsink mounted on clips

To install the prepared new processor heatsink clamping device, the heatsink must be removed. The radiator is secured to the lugs using four plastic clips. To release them, you need to insert a flat blade screwdriver into the slot of each clip, and turn its moving part counterclockwise by 90°.

Then, pressing the radiator from above with your hand, pull the moving parts of the clips up one by one. The fixing pins will come out of the gap between the tabs of the latches, and the radiator will easily come out upward.

On the left in the photo, the pin pushed the latches apart, and they were securely fixed in the board. In the center, the movable black part of the clip is raised up. On the right, the pin has released the latches, they no longer catch on the board, and the heatsink can be easily removed. Next, the clamps are removed from the radiator mounting eyes; they are no longer needed.

How to remove a cooler from a processor radiator

Coolers on processor radiators are usually attached in two ways: - using latches and screws.

How to remove a cooler from a processor
secured with latches

After the radiator is removed, you need to detach the cooler from it and clean the radiator fins from dust. The cooler also needs to be cleaned of dust and, if necessary, the bearings lubricated with graphite grease.

To remove the cooler from the radiator, you need to use a flat-head screwdriver to press out two rather tight latches located diametrically opposite.

How to remove a cooler from a processor
secured with screws

On some modern motherboards, the processor heatsink is secured using four long screws, in the manner described above when upgrading the mount.

The board is not deformed, but if it is necessary to lubricate the noisy cooler, you also have to remove the radiator, since the cooler is secured to the radiator using common screws.

For ease of installation of the cooler and radiator, grooves are made on the screws in which shaped lock washers are fixed, and in order to remove the cooler for lubrication, you must first remove them.

To do this, you need to place the radiator with the cooler on the edge of the table so that the unit can move freely along the axis without resting against the table surface. Next, you need to place a wooden block or plywood on the screw so as not to spoil the thread, and apply several blows with a hammer.

When removing the washers, you must be careful so that the springs do not fly away, otherwise you will have to search for them for a long time. The cooler has been removed and you can start cleaning it from dust and lubricating it.

Installing the cooler on the radiator is done in the reverse order. Springs are put on the screws and threaded through the mounting holes of the cooler and radiator. Next, lock washers are put on the screws and seated in their original place.

To put the locking washer on the screw, you need to select a piece of tube or a nut that fits loosely over the entire length of the screw.

Next, the vice needs to be adjusted so that there is a distance between its jaws slightly greater than the diameter of the screw. By hitting the head of the screw with a hammer, hammer it into the lock washer until it sits in the groove.

If you don’t have a vice at hand, you can take a tube or a few nuts. The length of the tube or the total thickness of the nuts should be slightly greater than the length of the screw from the beginning of the thread to the groove.

You can not put locking washers on the screws, but in this case it will be very inconvenient to install a radiator with a cooler on the processor.

The processor radiator and cooler are assembled and all that remains is to install them on the motherboard processor, not forgetting to evenly spread the old thermal paste (if it is not dried) over the surface of the processor and radiator or apply fresh one.

How to Apply Thermal Conductive Paste

The old thermal conductive paste from the processor and the contact surface of the radiator must be completely removed, since it thickens over time and if you install the radiator without replacing the paste, the efficiency of heat removal by the radiator from the processor will be lower.

It is better not to remove the processor from the crib, but if necessary, just move the lever to the side and lift it up, then open the clamping frame and remove the processor.

Thermal conductive paste is made of silicone and can be easily removed with a cotton cloth. Just press the fabric to the surface and rub it thoroughly.

Before applying new thermal conductive paste, you need to check the made device for mounting the radiator, install the radiator and tighten it with screws. If everything went well, you can proceed to the final installation of the heatsink on the processor. Since the contacting surfaces of the processor and heatsink have good flatness, it is enough to apply a thin layer of thermal conductive paste to them. There are no requirements for uniform application, since the paste has a soft consistency and spreads well when pressed.

I apply it with the blade of a screwdriver. Thermal conductive paste can be purchased at any store that sells computer equipment. Sold in tubes or syringes. One milliliter will be enough for application.

Installing a heatsink on the processor

Now you can begin installing the radiator. Place the radiator on the processor, orienting it in such a way that there is access to the cooler latches, then if you need to lubricate or replace it, you will be able to remove the cooler without removing the radiator. The holes in the radiator mounting tabs must be located strictly above the holes in the motherboard.

It remains to tighten four screws, and the radiator will be installed in its place. To ensure uniform pressure, the ends of all screws must protrude the same length from the metal plate. To create the necessary force to press the radiator onto the surface of the processor, the springs must be compressed by at least half their length.

After installing the cooler on the radiator and connecting it to the motherboard, the upgrade of the device for pressing the radiator to the processor on the motherboard can be considered complete.

If the computer system unit does not provide cooling of the processor by supplying air from the environment, then I recommend working a little more by modifying the processor cooling system as described in the site article

The computer suddenly stopped turning on; an autopsy revealed the presence of a swollen electrolytic capacitor along the +5 V power circuit on the motherboard. I had to start replacing the capacitor.

When I removed the motherboard, I was extremely surprised by its strong deflection in the area where the processor was installed. I applied the ruler and realized that if urgent measures were not taken, I would soon have to buy a new system unit.

Why does the motherboard sag?

I already knew cases of motherboard failure due to deflection. Since the conductive tracks on the motherboard are very narrow and thin, they stretch and microcracks form in them. Due to temperature changes due to the linear expansion of materials, microcracks gradually turn into cracks. The track is broken and the board stops working. At first, the computer begins to freeze occasionally, then more and more often, and a moment comes when it stops working forever.

Such a motherboard cannot be repaired; it has up to seven layers, and it is almost impossible to find a broken track. You have to replace it with a new one, and additional costs arise, since most likely the processor, memory modules and other cards installed on the old motherboard will not be installed on the new motherboard, since there are no longer the necessary connectors. In practice, you have to buy a new system unit, although the old one was quite suitable for your tasks.

When studying the device for pressing the radiator to the processor, it became clear that the deformation of the motherboard occurs due to its illiterate (or deliberate) design. The radiator is pressed against the processor, and the engagement holes for creating the pressing force of the radiator against the processor are also located on the printed circuit board at a distance from the processor installation location. Thus, the processor presses on the board in one direction, and the heatsink engagement points in the opposite direction. This leads to deformation of the motherboard.

To avoid deformation, it is necessary that the acting and opposing forces that are applied to the motherboard from different sides are on the same axis; this requirement was the starting point for upgrading the design of the radiator clamping device, which does not deform the motherboard.

As you can see, the plastic clips have been replaced with spring-loaded screws, but that's not the only difference. The design uses a metal plate and a dielectric bearing. Screws are screwed into the plate, and the plate rests with a thrust bearing instead of installing the processor. Thus, conditions for deformation of the motherboard are excluded.

Upgrading the CPU heatsink mounting system

In the photo you see the modernized clamping device in assembled form. Its design is so simple that almost anyone with minimal materials processing skills can repeat it.

First, a metal plate of steel or aluminum alloy measuring 85x85 mm and 3 mm thick is made. The thickness of the plate is determined by the required mechanical strength. Dimensions are valid for GIGABYTE GA81915P-G motherboard clamping device. Four holes with a diameter of 3.5 mm are drilled symmetrically at the corners of the plate at a distance of 72 mm around the perimeter from each other and an M4 thread is cut into them.

Next, a square plate of dielectric measuring 50×50 mm and thickness 1.5 mm is made. The thickness of the plate is determined by the clearance that must be provided to prevent the metal plate from touching the solder joints on the motherboard. I cut it out of foil fiberglass with metal scissors.

All that remains is to glue the plates together with any suitable glue or double-sided tape and the structure is ready. Before gluing, you need to place the processor on the soldering area and see if the protrusions of the soldering or soldered radio elements will interfere. If they interfere, then you need to make a sample in the insulating plate or drill holes in the places where they touch. The plate should lie flat on the board. After gluing, it is necessary to reattach the resulting combined plate and check whether the metal part will touch the soldering areas of the electrolytic capacitors. There are usually a lot of them around the processor. All protruding legs must be trimmed with side cutters. All that remains is to select screws, springs and washers.

It was not possible to find ready-made compression springs of the required diameter and stiffness, so we had to modify the most suitable tension spring. You can, of course, do without springs by using plastic washers, but then it is difficult to get a perfect fit of the radiator to the surface of the processor. I made the springs from one spring from the extension of the grounding wire of the kinescope monitor. Such springs are used in any CRT TV. The internal diameter of such a spring is 5 mm, the diameter of the wire is about 0.5 mm.

In order to stretch the spring, you need to insert two screwdrivers into its rings at the ends or grab it with two pliers and, using a little force, very slowly pull to the sides until you feel that the metal has “givered”. Release the spring and see what happens. The spring winding pitch should be about 1 mm, if less, repeat the operation. In case of a mistake, the kinescope usually has four springs, so there is something to practice on. The stretched spring is cut with pliers into pieces eight turns long.

It remains to select four screws with M4 threads 20 mm long.

I used nice screws that tighten the clamps that secure the deflection system to the neck of the picture tubes. But any will do, you just have to put standard washers on each side of the spring.

A fastener kit for upgrading the CPU heatsink clamping device has been prepared. Everything is ready to install the new fastening device, but first you need to dismantle the old one.

How to remove a processor heatsink mounted on clips

To install the prepared new processor heatsink clamping device, the heatsink must be removed. The radiator is secured to the lugs using four plastic clips. To release them, you need to insert a flat blade screwdriver into the slot of each clip, and turn its moving part counterclockwise by 90°.

Then, pressing the radiator from above with your hand, pull the moving parts of the clips up one by one. The fixing pins will come out of the gap between the tabs of the latches, and the radiator will easily come out upward.

On the left in the photo, the pin pushed the latches apart, and they were securely fixed in the board. In the center, the movable black part of the clip is raised up. On the right, the pin has released the latches, they no longer catch on the board, and the heatsink can be easily removed. Next, the clamps are removed from the radiator mounting eyes; they are no longer needed.

How to remove a cooler from a processor radiator

Coolers on processor radiators are usually attached in two ways: - using latches and screws.

How to remove a cooler from a processor
secured with latches

After the radiator is removed, you need to detach the cooler from it and clean the radiator fins from dust. The cooler also needs to be cleaned of dust and, if necessary, the bearings lubricated with graphite grease.

To remove the cooler from the radiator, you need to use a flat-head screwdriver to press out two rather tight latches located diametrically opposite.

How to remove a cooler from a processor
secured with screws

On some modern motherboards, the processor heatsink is secured using four long screws, in the manner described above when upgrading the mount.

The board is not deformed, but if it is necessary to lubricate the noisy cooler, you also have to remove the radiator, since the cooler is secured to the radiator using common screws.

For ease of installation of the cooler and radiator, grooves are made on the screws in which shaped lock washers are fixed, and in order to remove the cooler for lubrication, you must first remove them.

To do this, you need to place the radiator with the cooler on the edge of the table so that the unit can move freely along the axis without resting against the table surface. Next, you need to place a wooden block or plywood on the screw so as not to spoil the thread, and apply several blows with a hammer.

When removing the washers, you must be careful so that the springs do not fly away, otherwise you will have to search for them for a long time. The cooler has been removed and you can start cleaning it from dust and lubricating it.

Installing the cooler on the radiator is done in the reverse order. Springs are put on the screws and threaded through the mounting holes of the cooler and radiator. Next, lock washers are put on the screws and seated in their original place.

To put the locking washer on the screw, you need to select a piece of tube or a nut that fits loosely over the entire length of the screw.

Next, the vice needs to be adjusted so that there is a distance between its jaws slightly greater than the diameter of the screw. By hitting the head of the screw with a hammer, hammer it into the lock washer until it sits in the groove.

If you don’t have a vice at hand, you can take a tube or a few nuts. The length of the tube or the total thickness of the nuts should be slightly greater than the length of the screw from the beginning of the thread to the groove.

You can not put locking washers on the screws, but in this case it will be very inconvenient to install a radiator with a cooler on the processor.

The processor radiator and cooler are assembled and all that remains is to install them on the motherboard processor, not forgetting to evenly spread the old thermal paste (if it is not dried) over the surface of the processor and radiator or apply fresh one.

How to Apply Thermal Conductive Paste

The old thermal conductive paste from the processor and the contact surface of the radiator must be completely removed, since it thickens over time and if you install the radiator without replacing the paste, the efficiency of heat removal by the radiator from the processor will be lower.

It is better not to remove the processor from the crib, but if necessary, just move the lever to the side and lift it up, then open the clamping frame and remove the processor.

Thermal conductive paste is made of silicone and can be easily removed with a cotton cloth. Just press the fabric to the surface and rub it thoroughly.

Before applying new thermal conductive paste, you need to check the made device for mounting the radiator, install the radiator and tighten it with screws. If everything went well, you can proceed to the final installation of the heatsink on the processor. Since the contacting surfaces of the processor and heatsink have good flatness, it is enough to apply a thin layer of thermal conductive paste to them. There are no requirements for uniform application, since the paste has a soft consistency and spreads well when pressed.

I apply it with the blade of a screwdriver. Thermal conductive paste can be purchased at any store that sells computer equipment. Sold in tubes or syringes. One milliliter will be enough for application.

Installing a heatsink on the processor

Now you can begin installing the radiator. Place the radiator on the processor, orienting it in such a way that there is access to the cooler latches, then if you need to lubricate or replace it, you will be able to remove the cooler without removing the radiator. The holes in the radiator mounting tabs must be located strictly above the holes in the motherboard.

It remains to tighten four screws, and the radiator will be installed in its place. To ensure uniform pressure, the ends of all screws must protrude the same length from the metal plate. To create the necessary force to press the radiator onto the surface of the processor, the springs must be compressed by at least half their length.

After installing the cooler on the radiator and connecting it to the motherboard, the upgrade of the device for pressing the radiator to the processor on the motherboard can be considered complete.

If the computer system unit does not provide cooling of the processor by supplying air from the environment, then I recommend working a little more by modifying the processor cooling system as described in the site article

The cooler is a special fan that sucks in cold air and passes it through the radiator to the processor, thereby cooling it. Without a cooler, the processor may overheat, so if it breaks, it must be replaced as soon as possible. Also, for any manipulation with the processor, the cooler and radiator will have to be removed for a while.

Today there are several types of coolers that are attached and removed in different ways. Here is their list:

Depending on the type of fastening, you may need a screwdriver with the required cross-section. Some coolers come soldered together with radiators, therefore, then you will have to disconnect the radiator. Before working with PC components, you need to disconnect it from the network, and if you have a laptop, you additionally need to remove the battery.

Step by step instructions

If you are working with a regular computer, then it is advisable to place the system unit in a horizontal position in order to avoid accidental “falling out” of components from the motherboard. It is also recommended to clean your computer from dust.

Follow these steps to remove the cooler:

If the cooler is soldered together with the radiator, then do the same thing, but only with the radiator. If you can't get it off, there's a risk that the thermal paste underneath has dried out. To remove the radiator you will have to heat it up. For these purposes, you can use a regular hair dryer.

As you can see, to dismantle the cooler you do not need to have any in-depth knowledge of PC design. Before turning on the computer, be sure to reinstall the cooling system.

What is a computer processor? Many PC users, and especially beginners, refer to the entire system unit as a processor. And this is not at all true. A processor is a small part (slightly smaller than a matchbox) of a computer, which is located in the system unit and attached to the motherboard. Its main task is information processing. The more powerful the processor, the faster the computer works (“thinks”).

Many of us constantly argue over one important question: what is the most important part in a computer? Some argued that it is the keeper of all information - the hard drive, others talked about RAM, without the presence of which we would not be able to manage the files located on the hard drive. But the answer to this question lies on the surface and is very simple. The most important, integral part of a computer is the processor. Thanks to the operation of this block, we can synchronize each installed device in the computer, and their stable and correct operation depends entirely on the performance of the processor. But in the end, the processor, like any other element of the computer, outlives its intended time, and the time comes to replace it with a more advanced one.

Processor removal instructions

In order to learn how to remove the processor, you must carefully read this mini-instruction:

1. First, disconnect the system unit from the network (in the photo it is the even power cable). But it is better to disconnect all connected devices and place the system unit on its side, since in this case it will be more convenient to work.

Don’t forget: you just need to disconnect the computer from the network by unplugging the power cord from the outlet.

2. Then you need to remove the side cover from the case.

3. Disconnect all connecting wires to the processor and fan. These wires give them power.

4. Remove the fan with radiator - the cooling system.

5. Now you can remove the processor, but first of all, you need to inspect its design. As a rule, fastening methods are made in the form of clamping levers located on both sides. When pressed, they begin to move away from each other, thereby freeing the processor from the entire structure. There is also a clamping lever on the processor itself; it should also be removed, after which we remove the processor.

6. Install the processor in reverse order. Please note that if the processor is in the correct relative position above the socket (its place), it should fit there without any difficulty. Then secure it with a lever.

7. It should be remembered that before installing the cooler and radiator, it is necessary to apply thermal paste to the surface of the processor, which will reliably protect it from all kinds of overheating.

The process of removing the fan from the processor

Dust is the main enemy of a computer; fans most often suffer from it. Typically, a computer has three fans. One is on the video card, the second is in the power supply, the third is a fan that cools the processor. If it becomes heavily clogged with dust, the cooling rate of the processor will drop significantly, which will affect the performance of the computer.

First you need to understand the type of fastening. There are two types: latches and screws. If it is a latch, pull back the two levers and remove it. When fastening in the form of a screw, you need to use a screwdriver, carefully unscrew and remove the fan. As a rule, the processor cooling system consists of a fan and a radiator and is a single collapsible unit.

A heatsink exists to dissipate the heat generated by the processor. Over time, the radiator loses its properties due to dust accumulated on it and also needs to be removed and cleaned. Before removing the heatsink from the processor, you need to determine what type of mounting it is, they come in the following types:

• on latches using a clamping bracket or pistons (the most common fastening);
• on hot-melt adhesive (mostly found on inexpensive devices).

If the radiator has a piston fastening, then the process of removing it will not be difficult. You need to squeeze the antennae of the piston on the back of the board and press it, doing a similar operation with all the latches, you will release the radiator. Next, remove it and replace it with a new one, or you can simply replace the thermal paste.

If the radiator is pressed with brackets, then you will need a screwdriver. The main task here is to bend the bracket away from the fastening hole. This procedure requires the use of physical force, but you should be extremely careful, as a screwdriver that comes off can damage the device.

Removing a heatsink from glue is a very difficult and dangerous operation, as you can easily damage both the processor and the board. The only way out is to heat up the hot melt glue. But this should be done extremely carefully, because overheating can be fatal for the chipset.

Now you have learned how to properly remove the processor from the computer motherboard and the fan and radiator.